Modern Elizabethans Bases

In the lesson with Kat today we were experimenting modern foundations, brushes and techniques to decide on a base that we would find best to work with for our New Elizabethan makeup design.  

Products used:

• Illamasqua Skin Base in 1
• Kryolan Aquacolour
• Kryolan Supracolour
• Illamasqua Matte Primer
• Illamasqua Satin Primer
• Foundation Brush
• Kabuki Brush
• Powder Puff

Health and safety:

• Cover model
• Check for contact lenses
• Ask model about any skin complaints or allergies
• Make sure all brushes are clean
• Do not double dip with products

Illamasqua Skin Base

For the first trial, I used a matte primer to ready Beth's face for the application of the Skin Base (in shade 1). I decided to use the matte primer for this application as my research has shown me that often the finish of the complexions were almost dusty and chalky following the concoction of materials that were used of Elizabethan women's faces. After applying the Illamasqua Matte Primer with a foundation brush, I then proceeded to apply the Skin Base with the same brush. As I applied it, the base was quite streaky and sheer but I buffed it in soon after with a kabuki brush to even out the skin and work the base into Beth's complexion. It became a sheer-to-medium coverage, however, it was not build-able at all as I went to put another layer on, the previous layer of white would brush straight off. Finishing the look off, I used the Illamasqua Loose Powder and this helped to achieve the powdery/dusty look I was aiming for and allowed the base to set for further powder products (if needed). I feel like this is definitely an option to use for my contemporary Elizabethan look as the slightly lighter finish is a more modern look I prefer, but I do feel a heavier base would be a more effective way of tying in the Elizabethan theme. 

Kryolan Aquacolour

I became the model for the second experiment and we used a water-activated base. Beth used a matte primer to begin with on my face. As Beth started to mix the white colour with water, we both were not sure what the ratio between the two should be. Beth dipped her brush into a small bit of water to mix a reasonably thick consistency. The base was applied with a foundation brush and we found the mixture dried very quickly and became hard to work with. Streaks appeared so Beth attempted to buff the product into my skin, however, as the aquacolour had dried the product started to crumble off. With more practise, this method would become effective, however, the coverage and application was not the best we tried in this lesson.


Kryolan Suprabase

Chloe applied the third chosen base onto my face. We chose to try the Illamasqua Satin Primer as a base for the colour. The application of the Suprabase became difficult for Chloe as the primer had not sunk into my skin and the texture of the satin primer made the grease-based product slide around my face. This left the finish very sheer and glowy. This was not the intended result, so Beth and I attempted it again at the end of the lesson.


For the second attempt, Beth applied the Matte Skin Base to begin with and let it sink into my skin. Beth then proceeded to add the Suprabase with a foundation brush and buffed it in with her kabuki brush. The finish was then medium-high coverage and yet still added a sheen to the skin. This approach became Beth's and mine favourite technique and finish. White dominates the face and adds the Elizabethan complexion to the model but also has the contemporary trend of glowing skin - tying the two together and creating the perfect New Elizabethan base. 

The process of trialling and testing base products on each other and becoming the model are both two new things I have never experienced before. The experiments with different bases and their formulas has given me the confidence to judge what type would be suitable for a client and the brief. I also became more familiar with the types of brushes to use and when to use a setting powder to create the desired finish. Being the model for Beth and Chloe gave me the opportunity to understand the pressure that is applied and the help I can give to my peers throughout the process.

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