Colour Theory and 1st Face Chart

The 'Prismatic Colour Wheel' by Moses Harris (c. 1788)
The colour theory is an important tool to apply within the world of makeup design. Colours possess properties that can produce different sensations for people through their eyes as a result of reflection and the way colour emits light. It can influence human behaviour and mental psyche. Certain attributes can affect these influences - for example: the lightness, saturation and hues of the colours. 

On colour wheels, you can have harmonious and contrasting colours. Harmonious colours are neighbouring colours on the colours wheels e.g blue, blue-purple, purple and red-purple. Contrasting colours are opposite to each other e.g orange and blue or red and green. 

Further variations of these categories are monochromatic, analogous and complimentary.





Monochromatic means variations or different shades of the same colour. The diagram above shows in this case, all the variations of the shade red would be picked. Analogous colours are much like the harmonious colours I described above as they are the neighbouring colours. For yellow, you would pick a light green and orange from either side of the colour wheel to use as your colour palette. Analogous schemes will provoke a calmer emotion for the viewer and makeup looks will be softer and more subdued. Complementary colours are the contrasting shades. These colours will achieve a striking makeup look and a more exciting reaction for the viewer.

If you were looking to use 'grayscale' as a colour scheme, that would be called achromatic. Taupes and beiges (shades often used for foundations and concealers) are neutral colours. Chromatic colours are the pure colours on their own. For all colours, they can be cool or warm tones. A makeup example for these two tones would be Mac Lipsticks 'Ruby Woo' and 'Russian Red'. The photo shows how Ruby Woo has blue undertones making it a cooler shade of red. For the other shade Russian Red, it does not have a blue undertone and instead has a slight orange base to create this classic red colour, which is a warmer shade. 

1st Face Chart
In this lesson, we were also asked to try and produce our first face chart. We have not yet received our proper face charts, so today we worked on standard A4 paper with a face template. I have never used a face chart before so this was a very useful task to get to grips with the technique of using your brushes, creams and powders on a 2D surface. I found it difficult at first to blend in the cream Kroylan foundation without leaving harsh brush lines, but I managed to use a lighter hand and less product to build up a natural looking base on paper. 

There was no brief for our first attempt and so we had the freedom to create whatever look we desired. Following our lesson on the colour theory, I wanted to incorporate the monochromatic technique of using variations of one colour. I used shades of purple on the eyes and created a deep, vampiric, berry purple shade for the lips (with a pale complexion and contoured cheeks). For the eyes I used the neutral Mac palette and started with 'Cozy Grey' for the lid and all over base, 'Blackberry' (a purple) in the outer corner of the eye and deepened the crease with 'Brun' (deep brown) to smoke out the purple shade. I proceeded to add 'After Dusk' (a shimmery purple) across the lid to add more variations of purple, however, the plain paper did not allow me to press the purple shimmer into the page very well. I used a mixture of the 'Blackberry' and 'Brun' under the lash line and on the upper lash line to complete the eye look. For the lips, I applied 'LC 010' (from the Kryolan lip rouge palette). For this particular look I was creating, the colour was not a deep enough purple, so I pushed on the 'Blackberry' eyeshadow over the top to complete this monochromatic purple makeup look. 

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