Health and safety:
- Cover model
- Check for contact lenses
- Check for and ask model about any skin complaints or allergies
- When applying shadows or mascaras, ask model to close eyes and work carefully
- Make sure all brushes are clean
- Wash hands
- Do not double dip with products
Products used:
- Illamasqua Matte Primer
- Illamasqua Skin Base in 1
- Kryolan Concealer Camouflage Palette
- Kryolan Classic Blush Palette
- Kryolan Lip Rouge Palette
- Foundation Brush
- Kabuki Brush
- Powder Brush
- Angled Brush
In my first design, I wanted to include the Elizabethan theme in the colour palette. Using various shades of red, I created a simple but graphic and sharp-looking style. Reflecting the Elizabethan style, I wanted to create a very pale complexion. To produce this, I mixed Illamasqua's Matte Primer, Skin Base in 1 the D4 concealer from Kryolan's camouflage palette and applied this to Phoebe's face and lips. For the contour, I started by creating a harsh red line using Kryolan's Youth Red blush and blended it out multiple times after applying more layers. This technique meant the cheekbones were strikingly contoured but there were no noticeably harsh lines. The bold eyeliner was a mix of Kryolan's Lip Rouge in LC152 and LCO1O which is also the same shade I mixed for the heart shape on the lips.
After creating this look, I discovered the mixture used for the base on Phoebe's skin is my favourite so far for a modern Elizabethan look. The reason for this is that it left a light and demi-matte finish that looked airbrushed and youthful. If I were to re-create this exact look again, I would make the eyeliner less curved and more linear. I would also either make the eyebrows red to match the look or cover them up completely.
Products used:
- Illamasqua Matte Primer
- Illamasqua Skin Base in 1
- Kryolan Concealer Camouflage Palette
- Kryolan Brights V2 Eyeshadow Palette
- Illamasqua Liquid Metals Palette
Analogous
Yellow was my chosen colour to use for the 'neighbouring colours' scheme so I could use oranges and hints of gold. My face chart design was very soft and the emphasis was left on the lips so I wanted to make sure this was reflected when it was recreated on my face.
To begin with, I used the same mixture for the base and the design above and concealed under the eyes with D1 + D3 (Kryolan Camouflage palette) to lighten my face under the eyes and on the cheekbones to make sure I had a flawless base. A combination of the orange and yellow shades were when I created a colourful yet subtle smokey eye look. I used a small amount of the gold shade from the Illamasqua Liquid Metals palette to line underneath my lash line. This shade was also used all over my lip. My cheeks were softly contoured with a mixture of orange shadows.
I loved the softness of this look, leaving the emphasis on one area of the face, so I would definitely look into incorporating these techniques into my New Elizabethan design.
Products used:
- Illamasqua Matte Primer
- Kryolan Ultrafoundation in Ivory
- Illamasqua Skin Base in 1
- Kryolan Supracolour Palette
- Kryolan Brights V2 Eyeshadow Palette
- MAC Pigment in Reflect Gold
Complimentary
My final look I designed aimed to be a contrasting and eye-catching look. The base was similar to the two other looks, but instead of mixing concealer I used the Ultrafoundation in Ivory with the Skin Base to make a thicker and more flawless finish. To create the harsh and defining contour I used TK2 and BL10 from the Supracolour palette to achieve a bold blue shade. I carried the contour up onto the temples and under the jaw to define the face. Blue shades for the V2 Kryolan palette were used across Phoebe's lid and I added Mac's Gold Reflex pigment in the inner corner to add more dimension and some shine to the design. Orange shadows from the colour eyeshadow palette were used under the lashes and on the cheeks for blush. To complete the look, I used 288 from the Supracolour palette all over her lips.
I am very pleased with the outcome of this look as it is striking and flawless. The skin is very glowly and if this were to be recreated I would like more sheen on the face so would make more used of the Gold Reflex pigment, perhaps on the cheeks for a highlight or in the centre of the lips. Another element of the look I really admire is the contouring. The greasepaint on top of a glowly and flawless base allowed me to blend it easily and the final outcome meant the whole face had a sheen - which has a beautiful finish.
This experience of designing on a proper face chart, choosing suitable products and applying the look has been extremely useful as it is a staple skill I will use from now and throughout my career and this practise has made it easier and given me confidence to do more. The applications on Phoebe's and my face allowed me to also experiment with bases for my Elizabethan design which was also a helpful exercise.
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