Saturday 12 December 2015

Biblography

Books

Aileen Ribeiro. 2011. Facing Beauty, Painted Women & Cosmetic Art. Published by Aileen Riberio (U.S). Chapter: Renaissance 78-82.
Fenja Gunn. 1973. The Artifical Face, A History of Cosmetics. Published by David & Charles (London). Chapter: Late Fifteeth and Sixteeth Centuries 70-88
Jana Ririalli & Lan Nguyen. 2009. Makeup is Art. Published by AOFM (UK). Chapter: Primers, Eyes, Highlighting and Lips. Pages 10-12, 16-26, 34-36, 44-55
Kevyn Aucoin. 1999. Making Faces. Published by Little, Brown and Company (New York). Chapter: The Innocent. Pages 106-108
Rae Morris. 2010. MAKEUP The Ultimate Guide. Published by Apple Press (UK) Third Edition. Chapter: Eyes. Pages 92 – 102
Richard Corson. 2003. Fashions in Makeup, From Ancient to Modern Times. Published by Peter Owen Publishers (London.) Third Edition. Chapter: Elizabethan Days 101-113
Susan Doran and Norman Jones. 2014. The Elizabethan World. Published by Routledge (Oxfordshire) Chapter: Society – Women. Pages 335-349

Websites

David Nash Ford. 2002. 'Lettice Knollys (1540 – 1634) [28^th October 2015] Available from: www.berkshirehistory.com/bios/knollys.html
Illamasqua. 2014. 'The Edit: Once Collection Launch' [2^nd November 2015] Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/blog/once-collection/
Jill Burke. 2011. 'Making Up The Renaissance' [14^th October 2015] Available from: https://sites.eca.ed.ac.uk/renaissancecosmetics/
Linda Alchin. 2012. 'Elizabethan Family Life' [18^th October 2015] Available at: http://elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-family-life.htm
Linda Alchin. 2015. 'Elizabethan Make-up' [29^th September 2015] Avaliable from: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm
Maggi Ros. 2008. 'Love and Marriage' [18^th October 2015] Available at: http://elizabethan.org/compendium/10.html
Sonia Haria. 2015. 'How I Created Beauty That Broke The Internet' [1^st October 2015] Avaliable from: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/people/mario-dedivanovic-the-man-behind-kim-kardashians-face/
Vogue. 2009. 'John Galliano' [3^rd October 2015] Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2009/ready-to-wear/john-galliano

Films/Television

Elizabeth 1998 (Film) Directed by Shekhar Kapur

Queen Elizabeth films (referenced in one blog post):

Anonymous, 2011 (Film) Directed by Roland Emmerich
Mary of Scotland, 1936 (Film) Directed by John Ford and Leslie Goodwins
Shakespeare in Love, 1998 (Film) Directed by John Madden
The Tudors, 2007- 2010 (Television Series) Created by Micheal Hurst with various directors
The Virgin Queen, 2005 (Film) Directed by Coky Giedroyc
The Virgin Queen, 1955 (Film) Directed by Henry Koster

Exhibitions/Trips

Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits – National Portrait Gallery (15^th October)
Backstage Tour – National Theatre (27^th November)

Technical File Sign Off

Evaluations

Technical

Since the beginning of the project, my skills have grown massively within makeup application. I have never been involved with makeup professionally or been taught it properly before but I have always had a huge interest. I feel learning the basics like base application, contouring and lip application has been a huge help to start my skill set. I have really enjoyed learning these and tips like feeling the face to contour are aspects of makeup application that I will practise and use throughout my career.

A difficult area for me is working around the eyes as I have not had practise of this before, other than on myself. After weeks of practise and having a partner to advise me of my skills, this difficulty has become easier to overcome. I also have grown a lot in confidence working with a model and communicating throughout to make them feel comfortable. It can take me time to become confident in front of people so to show a new level of confidence on a professional level was a challenge. However, overall this first term of learning new skills has been very beneficial and a great start for the next three years and beyond.

Peer Review

As a team, Tara and myself worked extremely well together making the assessments for both of us much easier. We had great communication throughout the process, used each other to gain technical skills and developed our creative designs together. Having many practise sessions gave me the confidence to put into a professional environment and complete a design within a set time - much like the industry will be. As it is my first time ever completing such a task I was apprehensive but being organised and well-rehearsed have been my strong points.

I feel I was at a slight disadvantage never having been taught makeup or having the professional practise before and I found it difficult to adapting to creating someone else’s idea as opposed to applying my own. Interpreting and applying it in the way your partner pictures it to be is a challenging skill to learn and I have gained a new level of confidence to go for it and gain from my mistakes. It was tough for me initially to apply the products in the exact place or correct intensity but I was lucky to have a great partner who aided me with my technical skills and kept me calm!

Final Evaluation

Since beginning this project, my skill set has massively improved in makeup application and design. Before starting at Solent, I have never applied makeup onto someone else in a professional context or have been taught it so I was extremely nervous about all the new information I would learn! However, I have enjoyed this term a lot and the skills I have been taught are invaluable. I am pleased that I have been able to grasp the basics of makeup application through learning things from how to apply bases to cream contouring, which are aspects in the world of makeup that will stick with me forever.

I found it difficult adapting to working on many different faces. Before beginning this course I knew a major portion of my desired career is variety and having the opportunity to experiment, make mistakes and improve now has been extremely useful. It has taken me time to learn the correct ways of applying various products and recognising skin types but I have found the technical sessions with Sue very helpful. One aspect I have throughly enjoyed is being able to create a character through makeup and I cannot wait to experiment more with design over the next year.

Peer Review

Peer Review of my partner Tara Page

Practical and professional skills: B2. Tara is very competent with her practical skills and demonstrated a great amount of creative thinking for the application of my design. Her ability developed over the period of working together to adapt to my desires and she extremely professional throughout.
Transferable and key skills (working effectively as part of a team): B1. Within our pairing, Tara gave me great communication with help and constructive criticism for me as artist and listened very well as the artist herself.
Transferable and key skills (problem solving): B2. Her work and designs were always clearly presented for me and she applies herself to resolve issues within our work together.

Assessment: Me as Designer and Tara as Makeup Artist

Following myself being the makeup artist, my partner Tara took over the role and completed my New Elizabethan design. We have had many practises to perfect the look and I was very confident in Tara that she would bring my idea to life. The final photos show the New Elizabethan bridal character I wanted to be created and shows Tara's technical skills she has quickly built up over this term.

To begin her assessment, she had a clean station with well organised products and tools and images of my makeup, face charts and instructions taped to the mirror. Tara took her time with applying and blending my base but this was the one of the most crucial elements of my look as I wanted it to be glowing and flawless. She created the right shade to mirror my idea of having a natural looking pale complexion. She applied the blush in all the correct places but because of the pigmentation of the product it took Tara some time to blend it all out. Tara also made sure to blend the colour into the hair line and jaw after my feedback on previous attempts so the blush looked great in the final photos.

Tara then tackled the most challenging and time-consuming section of my design – the eyes. Although, because of all our practise sessions Tara was very confident in the steps to complete the design and plotted the shape, filled it in and layered on the copper pigment. At one point, the shapes were not symmetrical on both eyes but that was

quickly solved by Tara correcting it with concealer. Tara did not panic and remained calm throughout the whole process! The completed eye look was exactly how I imagined and Tara had remembered to layer lots of powder under my eyes to make sure the rest of the look was not ruined by fallout. She lightly coated my eyebrows with the white skin base quickly and finished the look by completing the lips. Tara wanted to perfect the glitter that was layered on top so in the images they were not cracked or patchy. This did mean a lot of layering and a lot of not moving my mouth until the photos were shot! But I love the lips and I feel like Tara taking the extra time to perfect them really finished the look off well.

As a few of the sections of my design were fiddly and more complicated to perfect, it did affect how much time Tara had in the assessment. She finished at the end of the time limit to make sure she perfected the look and I feel she had great time management to make sure she had enough time for each step. The only thing I would potentially advise Tara next time is to really get stuck in with buffing products onto my face to get the desired look quicker but as it is both our first times doing this she really did her best! Tara was a great artist and completed my look exactly how I wanted it and we really bonded as artists and designers through lots of communication and extra practise sessions.

Assessment: Tara as Designer and Me as Makeup Artist

Following many trials and practise sessions, the time running up to the final makeup assessment was filled with stress! However, thankfully the extra sessions with my partner Tara did fill me with confidence when it came to applying the look on the day. I am very pleased with the final outcome in the photos as Tara explained they were very much how she pictured and I believe it was my best application so far.

To begin the hour and ten minutes, I set up my station with Tara's face chart, step by step and photos from our previous practises. For health and safety, I covered my model, checked for any skin complaints that had not been present before this trial and checked for contacts. I had all my products and tools set out and began on the base. Tara wanted a very glowing and dewy pale complexion that had a flawless finish. As I applied the primer quickly and then took more time to buff in more satin primer and the combined skin bases over the top, I produced a base much like Tara described. Applying the silver liquid metals as a highlight was one of the time consuming details to learn and apply as Tara was particular in where she wanted the shine and how blended it was. After the trials, I felt confident in my placement and managed to complete this stage in good timing with a successful results with an symmetrical placement around the face that was obviously silver and shining but blended. For the lips, I added some white and dabbed silver into the centre carefully to not distract from the rest of the look.

In Tara's design, for some reason the eyes always took the longest!! In trials I often put the shadow too high before blending or the shape became too angular and not blended. But after Tara's help and good communication I found a technique of adding the layers of lipstick then lots of powder and then blending just in the socket of her eye to get the softness she desired. I was very relieved when Tara was pleased with this aspect as it was one that frustrated us both! I proceeded to fill in her eyebrows evenly with a grey shade and brushed silver through the hairs at the end of her brows. The most challenging aspect of this design was the blood tear. Previous attempts were too thick, too long or we did not have the right product to create Tara's design. In the final assessment I mixed bright red shadows with a fair amount liquid mixing medium to create a substance that will drip enough for me to deepen the colour in the natural tear drop shape. This was the most successful attempt of the tear and Tara was happy with the finish. I did find it challenging to work around the eyes so much but it is great practise for my future career.

The most challenging aspect of this assessment was the time limit. In the beauty world there is always going to be a time limit, whether I will be on a set or a wedding, and this project has really aided me with getting to grips with this crucial aspect of being a makeup artist. I did complete the look with seconds to spare as I really wanted to finish the look perfectly, however, I wanted to finish a little early to go over everything one more time. If I were to do this look again on my partner, I would get the basic look done in good time and perfect after. Also, this time the hand print was less defined as the previous attempts and this was unfortunately something that is hard to control as I was using my hand to print the colour so it could smudge definitely each time.

Tara was a great partner to have as she was always prepared to let me practise on her inside and outside lessons. She had great commitment to our work and always helped me with constructive criticism and technical skills I could adapt to fit her design. We also worked well with choosing and mixing the correct products to achieve her ideal look. Overall, I would love to work with her again and will miss having her to practise on as she is a fabulously patient and happy model!