I have created 4 initial designs to inspire a final design for my timed assessment. They have been designed with both historical and contemporary beauty ideals in mind, as well as featuring my character design for Lettice Knollys (a bride on her secret and lustful marriage).
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| (2/11/15) |
My first design is heavily influenced by modern bridal makeup that is light, fresh and dewy looking. I wanted to include copper/gold shades (on the eyes) to represent Lettice's status in society as well as shades of pink to show the overlapping innocence and lust in her life. The eyeshadow will extend beyond the crease and over the brows (which would be white/non-existent). Her eyes would also have a white line around the lash-lines to emphasis the eyes and elude to bigger eyes to reflect the desire for a younger face in the Elizabethan era. The complexion is a mix of the lightest shade (Ivory) of the Ultrafoundation and Skin Base 1 to create a light shade that does not create just a pale face. The contouring on my face chart is very heavy, however, when this is applied it would be much lighter to only slightly shape the face. For the lips, I mixed Rose (MAC) pigment and a mixing medium to create a lip colour that was a neutral pink with reflects of gold. I want this makeup look to be light and glowy with hints of romance and royalty.
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| (3/11/15) |
For my second New Elizabethan design, I used my research on modern beauty trends through strong contour styles from Kim Kardashian (the post can be found here). To keep the Elizabethan theme incorporated into this design, I created a monochromatic look with the colour red - a colour very often used in Queen Elizabeth I's makeup routine. I used a warmer tone of foundation to mix with the skin base (Illamasqua shade 1) to create a more modern complexion - the ideals and trend of being tanned. For the contour and highlight, I produced a very dramatic stripe with 008 lip colour (Kryolan) and blended it out with Youth Red blush (Kryolan) to reflect the craze for heavily contoured cheeks in modern times. I used the red shades from the V2 palette to create a dramatic smoky eye and finished the look of with classic red lips - a trend in both historical and modern references. Also, I left the brows (they would be white when makeup design is on face) to reflect the Elizabethan trend of over-plucking. I wanted this look to be a dramatic bridal look for an passionate bride.
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| (3/11/15) |
Inspired John Galliano's catwalk look in 2009 (research can be found at the bottom of this post), this design emphasises both her secrecy and the Elizabethan desire to stay young. The base would be a thick layer of Illamasqua's Skin Base in 1 to reflect the technique of the women of the Elizabethan era to hide the ageing skin and attempt to demonstrate a 'virginal' look on her wedding day. Darkening the eye look shows her dark side behind her secret love affair with the Queen's previous love interest. As well as that, it could be another attempt in the look to cover up any aged skin with dark colours. Glitter would be added on the darkest part of the eye look to show her glamour and beauty that could've allured her groom. I would tinge the cheeks and lips with a pinky-red shade, much like the Elizabethans, to show a romantic and sexual side to her.
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| (3/11/15) |
My fourth design is a simplistic and high-fashion design. The face would be completely white with a white layer for the base (Illamasqua Skin Base in 1) and a matte primer mixed in to create a blank canvas for the gold highlights. I used the shade Electrum from the Illamasqua Liquid Metals palette to highlight the cheekbones, eyes and lips - all aspects of the face that would be seen as youthful in the Elizabethan era. The eyebrows are also coloured in gold following my research into Pat McGrath's Elizabethan inspired work (on this blogpost). This simple design will create a striking and beautiful bridal Elizabethan makeup look.
After coming up with these look, I used a couple of books to start thinking of how aspects could be applied to my face and what type of products could help achieve the look I am wanting to have.
Makeup is Art by Jana Ririalli & Lan Nguyen
- Silicon primers will help smooth over fine lines o form a smooth base for foundation to go on more smoothly.
- Lipsticks that are cream or satin textured have a smooth appearance with a touch of sheen that appears almost moist.
- On the catwalks, cream shimmers are often applied to the face first, then a powder shimmer is applied on top to create a strong reflective effect.
- Loose pigment can be applied on the eye like shadow, but will need a sticky surgace to grip onto such as a cream shadow.
MAKEUP The Ultimate Guide by Rae Morris
- [Metallic eyes] Prep the eyes but don't apply a powder and use a wet brush to apply a wash of metallic pigment to whole eyelid.
- Apply a rose-gold pigment over the whole eyelid. Then apply a strong copper pigment over the lid but not as high as the first colour. This will blend the colours beautifully.
- Wetting the brush intensifies the colour and stops fallout.
Making Faces by Kevyn Aucoin
- Outline the lips with a flesh-toned pencil and soften with a cotton swab. With your fingertip, apply lipgloss to center of bottom lip and smack
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