Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts
Saturday, 12 December 2015

Biblography

Books
  • Aileen Ribeiro. 2011. Facing Beauty, Painted Women & Cosmetic Art. Published by Aileen Riberio (U.S). Chapter: Renaissance 78-82.
  • Fenja Gunn. 1973. The Artifical Face, A History of Cosmetics. Published by David & Charles (London). Chapter: Late Fifteeth and Sixteeth Centuries 70-88
  • Jana Ririalli & Lan Nguyen. 2009. Makeup is Art. Published by AOFM (UK). Chapter: Primers, Eyes, Highlighting and Lips. Pages 10-12, 16-26, 34-36, 44-55
  • Kevyn Aucoin. 1999. Making Faces. Published by Little, Brown and Company (New York). Chapter: The Innocent. Pages 106-108
  • Rae Morris. 2010. MAKEUP The Ultimate Guide. Published by Apple Press (UK) Third Edition. Chapter: Eyes. Pages 92 – 102
  • Richard Corson. 2003. Fashions in Makeup, From Ancient to Modern Times. Published by Peter Owen Publishers (London.) Third Edition. Chapter: Elizabethan Days 101-113
  • Susan Doran and Norman Jones. 2014. The Elizabethan World. Published by Routledge (Oxfordshire) Chapter: Society – Women. Pages 335-349



Websites



Films/Television
  • Elizabeth 1998 (Film) Directed by Shekhar Kapur

Queen Elizabeth films (referenced in one blog post):

  • Anonymous, 2011 (Film) Directed by Roland Emmerich
  • Mary of Scotland, 1936 (Film) Directed by John Ford and Leslie Goodwins
  • Shakespeare in Love, 1998 (Film) Directed by John Madden
  • The Tudors, 2007- 2010 (Television Series) Created by Micheal Hurst with various directors
  • The Virgin Queen, 2005 (Film) Directed by Coky Giedroyc
  • The Virgin Queen, 1955 (Film) Directed by Henry Koster


Exhibitions/Trips
  • Tudor and Elizabethan Portraits – National Portrait Gallery (15th October)
  • Backstage Tour – National Theatre (27th November)

Leave a Comment ,
Tuesday, 3 November 2015

Illamasqua 'Once' Inspiration - New Elizabethan Makeup Ideas

In 2014, Illamasqua released a collection named 'Once'. For the promotion of the makeup release, Alex Box and a team of stylists created an photoshoot using the 'once' products that portray an Elizabethan atmosphere within the finished photographs. The colours used on the models face are pale and soft, leaving her looking youthful and fresh. The eyelids are highlighted and the socket lines are darkened to emphasis the woman's eyes - a style used by the Elizabethan to create a youthful look. A strong Elizabethan aspect used in this design is the strongly pigmented rouge used on the cheeks. Finished with a pink gloss on the lips, the look is an exaggerated and striking, but still beautiful, bridal look in my eyes (one I would love to incorporate within my final makeup design).

Alex Box, the creative director of Illamasqua, described the looks in terms of 'a flower starting to fade and becoming impossibly beautiful in its complex decline' (Illamasqua.com, 2014). This description optimises the facade I want to create for my Lettice Knollys inspired design. Lettice was once married in her innocence and it is rumoured that she had an affair and married this lover soon after her husbands death. Her innocence started to fade through her infidelity but her beauty prevailed in a way that resulted in marriage after the affair.

Reference: Illamasqua. 2014. 'The Edit: Once Collection Launch' [2nd November 2015] Available from: http://www.illamasqua.com/blog/once-collection/
Leave a Comment

Anne of Denmark - National Portrait Gallery

On our trip to London, we visited the National Portrait Gallery. Specifically, we looked around the Tudor and Elizabethan section. The Tudor section was overwhelmed with royalty and many portraits of Queen Elizabeth I herself, however, one image caught my eye through her angelic ora. 'Anne of Denmark' was painted at the end of the Elizabethan era, between 1605 and 1610, and demonstrates the wife of King James VI in an elegant silvery-blue gown and simply elegant makeup. This portrait reminded me instantly of a bride through the pale colours used in the material of her dress, the pearls wrapped around her chest representing virginity and her polished, pale complexion and neat hair to show royalty and wealth. The reason I have chosen to include this particular portrait in my research is to show a style of hair and makeup that symbolises to me an Elizabethan bride to tie in with my theme following Lettice Knollys story. 
Leave a Comment

Modern Bridal Makeup Looks - New Elizabethan Makeup Ideas

Following my research in my Lady in Waiting, I have decided to create a New Elizabethan bridal look. Before incorporating the lustful and secretive aspects of Lettice Knollys story, I wanted to look at contemporary, western bridal makeup looks. I used pinterest to locate the images above that demonstrate various natural and beautiful designs. All of the looks swing towards the more dewy bases and strobing techniques to highlight the face and keep it looking youthful and flawless. Cheeks are often tinged with light pinks and lips are glossy and neutral. The majority of the looks shown above have the 'English Rose' look that incorporates the ideal of 'an attractive English girl with a delicate, fair-skinned complexion regarded as typically English' (anon, Google Definitions). Incorporating the English Rose look with the extreme makeup routines of the Elizabethans will be my aim to create a New Elizabethan bride.
5 comments

My Lady in Waiting

Lettice Knollys
To be a lady in waiting for Queen Elizabeth you had to be selected from high ranking families or after having a lifetime friendship with the monarch. Ladies in waiting were required to attend to all the requirements of the Queen and became loyal confidantes as they followed her journey through like as the Queen of England. Elizabeth took care of these ladies and would select suitable husbands for them and it was not accepted to marry without her official consent. 

 I have chosen to look at the most promiscuous and controversial lady in waiting, Lettice Knollys. Lettice married her first husband Walter Devereux (Earl of Essex) at the age of 17 in 1960, however, after her husband travelled to Ireland in 1573 it was speculated that she became romantically involved with the famous love interest of Elizabethan Tudor, Robert Dudley. She went on to marry him 1578 (two years after her first husband died) in secret. When word spread of the scandalous marriage, all the way to the throne, Queen Elizabeth I banished Lettice from the courts for the rest of her life. Following this, her social status diminished and her 1st son with Robert died at the age of three and this strained their marriage massively and ended it in divorce. However, Lettice did remarry for a 3rd time to Sir Christopher Blount and she was known as Lady Leicester for the remained of her life.

 For my final New Elizabethan makeup designs, I want to focus on the dangerous and most secretive stage of her life - her marriage to Robert. This unforgivable relationship was seen as a crime in the eyes of the monarch, however, it did not stop Lettice from finalising it with marriage. Various ideals, symbols and colours associated with Lettice in this stage of her life could be used to manipulate into a makeup design and I have created a brainstorm to explore these aspects. 


Following this, I have decided to base my makeup design on the idea it is her 'secret wedding day'. The skin will be glowing and flawless to reflect her desire to remain youthful (following her first marriage at 19) but also to make sure the skin is beautiful for 'the wedding'. The design for the rest of the face will be based around a modern bridal look incorporating Elizabethan colours. 

 From this brainstorm, I have gathered enough thoughts to conclude that the initial colours I want to work with will be reds and whites but mainly the combination of the two, pink. The shade pink can symbolise the overlapping and conflicting aspects of her life - marriage and affairs. To the outside world, she is an innocent widow married for 18 years but she is secretly hiding her lustful relationship of two years which was ultimately dangerous resulting in banishment. Red is often associated with love, sexuality and danger and the contrasting white represents virginity, innocence and purity. The combination of the two symbolise her lifestyle in the run up to her wedding. These two colours are also iconic of the Elizabethan era following the trend of white complexions and rouge cheeks and lips. Potentially darker shades could also be incorporated to represent the secrecy. I would like to also incorporate golds and silvers into highlights in the makeup to represent her life high in the hierarchy of society (marrying a Sir and an Earl twice) and to hint towards the royalty Elizabeth and her ladies. 

 In regards to headpieces and clothing, as I want to centre the makeup design around the colours pink, gold and shades of red I will incorporate the 'innocent' white colour with a white fur collar around the neck and pearls or white jewels in the hair.

 Reference: David Nash Ford. 2002. 'Lettice Knollys (1540 – 1634) [28th October 2015] Available from: www.berkshirehistory.com/bios/knollys.html 
Leave a Comment
Monday, 2 November 2015

Symbolism in a Selfie


Following my research in symbols in portraits (Modern Status Symbols & Elizabethan and Modern Portraits), we have been asked to create our own 'selfie' with symbols representing us in the modern world. To begin with, I decided to have natural makeup to show how I like to present myself to the outside world on a daily basis - easy and no fuss! I also decided to leave my hair naturally curly as I have learned to embrace this style through my teenage years!

 Starting from the top right, I have a pile of dvds. I am a movie fanatic and my interest in makeup started from the 'behind the scenes' videos of the makeup and styling. My goal in life is to make a name for myself in the media, film and television industry. Next in the photo (clockwise) I have 3 items of makeup - specifically lipstick! Mac cosmetics are one of my favourite brands and having this included represents my obsession with makeup. Top left in the photo is a photobooth image of my boyfriend and me. He is a big part of my life and a massive support in every aspect, so it only felt right to include him! Finally are a pair of slippers! I see myself as a bit of a 'grandma' and live in my slippers, whilst sipping tea on a Sunday night in front of the telly, so they are present in the photo to represent my love to be cosy at home when I have the chance!
Leave a Comment ,
Sunday, 1 November 2015

Copper Eyes Inspiration

Alexander McQueen
For his collection in Fall 2015, Alexander McQueen had a very Elizabethan inspired hair style and makeup design. All models were redheads with pale complexions but the emphasis was on their eyes. A shade much similar to their hair was used to bring out the brightness and white in their eyes - a trait of youth. The coppery shade used around the eyes is reminiscent of the renaissance period full of royalty and indulgence. I can imagine the members of high society in that period would have flaunted rich golds, silvers and a mixture of the two through clothing and accessories so I feel copper will be an interesting way to incorporate this element into my New Elizabethan. 


Leave a Comment
Thursday, 29 October 2015

Elizabethan Society - Who Wore The Makeup?


The Elizabethan era is associated with Queen Elizabeth I's reign through 1558–1603 and is considered to be the Golden Age in England. 

Elizabethan attitudes towards women were shaped often by the tales and ideals drawn from the bible, however, it was becoming a time daughters were inheriting estates and a woman could be queen - although parliament named Elizabeth supreme governor, not supreme head, of the English church (Doran and Jones, 2014). Women of this time were still expected to marry to increase the wealth of their family. Careers were almost non-existent for women and in homes they were seen as inferior to men (Alchin, 2012). Ideal female behaviour suggested that women would be chaste, quiet and obedient. Marriage was expected of all women to be dependant on their male relatives and produce children (preferably males). Some women did manage to negotiate these terms to exercise degrees of independence through passing on successful wills demonstrating their wealth they have collected from the family and distributed it to their heirs. The icon of the era Queen Elizabeth herself, however, made it clear in a public announcement that she was exceptional and did not consider herself a model for other women (Doran and Jones, 2014). Looking back on this historically, it is very ironic how she was the model for makeup and hair throughout her reign and afterwards.

Family life for men in the 1500's was a life of power. They made decisions and orders, expected to be followed by their wives, but also were expected to support their families. A man's earnings would go towards making their children wealthier and improving their social positions for them when they were older. (Alchin, 2012). If a man were to become a widow in this era, he would indefinitely look to remarry (especially if he has children). In a sense, this hastiness removes any importance or love for the previous mother, wife and woman. This reflects the nature of the society between 1550 and 1600.

References

Leave a Comment
Thursday, 22 October 2015

Status Symbols in the Modern World

In the 21st Century, it has recently become a trend to flaunt your status. Traditionally throughout history, this has been portrayed through wealth in portraits, stories and films. In the last decade, status symbols in modern society can be seen in many different ways – some more subtle than others. These sort of symbols are important to take into account when design a 'New' Elizabethan look.


The first image above is Kylie Jenner displaying her wrist covered in 'arm candy' on the social media platform Instagram. To any normal onlooker they would admire the bracelets and move on. After studying the image for longer and researching the logo, it becomes clear that the Cartier 'love bracelets' on her wrist are worth $32,650 on one wrist alone. Kylie Jenner has risen to fame through the Kardashian family and brand and this single image demonstrates the kind of status and wealth the youngest member (at 18) has in modern society.

Other obvious displays of status are high-end, labeled clothing and accessory brands. Louboutin heels have been a huge trend since 2007 and wealthy people will splash out £450 on average for a plain patent pair of stilettos – with the red on the underneath of the shoe. Flashing the red sole of the shoe flaunts somebody's social status even when they are just walking down the street. Handbags are another very popular symbol of status. Highly desired handbags are designed by Prada and can be bought for around £1,050 for a leather tote. These kinds of symbols are traditional ways to demonstrate the fact you have money and this has been used throughout history with objects such as diamonds, gold and family heirlooms.

Less obvious examples of status symbols would be the choice of your life partner. Celebrities like Angelia Jolie and Brad Pitt are a prime example of an extremely wealthy family, high up in societies hierarchy in the 'celebrity' world, that almost show off their status through their attractiveness. Their worth, wealth and looks correlate with their high status. The power of your partner could also symbolise your status in society. Michelle Obama is married to the most powerful man in the USA and this obviously shows her and her families high status in the world. These aspects of modern social symbols could hark back to historical icons like Henry VI marrying multiple attractive woman to create powerful male offsprings or portraits created of royalty to show their power over their realms.


A very contemporary and recent trend of social status is a 'green' lifestyle' and social media plays a massive part in displaying this. Being healthy and having a 'good body' has always been a trend, but in recent months crazes for diet teas and green detox smoothies have taken off. Being able to afford and maintain this sort of lifestyle (whilst photographing and uploading to social media platforms) is subtle way of showing your social status. In Elizabethan times, changes to your diet like spoiling the stomach with dirt and coal to make your skin pale or painting your face with toxic concoctions showed your inspiration from the Queen's wealth and status.

The final two images represent more modern but more obvious shows of social status. Expensive cars reflect great wealth and have been a sign of this since cars were first invented. A 'fit' and 'healthy' body is an extension of the green lifestyle and attractive partners but is the ideal for the public to look up too and achieve through expensive clothes and personal trainers. All of these are often displayed through wealthy people or the celebrities of the modern world and therefore have become public and iconic status symbols of the modern world. For my project, I will look into ways of incorporating this research mixed with the traditional Elizabethan symbols to optimise the New Elizabeth theme.
Leave a Comment

Reflection in Lesson 21/10/15

In this session, we had the opportunity to share our blogs and peer assessment our work so far with a partner. With checklists, we confirmed what has been done and what needs to be caught up on. This is the first time I have shared my work with someone in my class so it was a great opportunity to get positive and negative feedback from a classmate in the same situation.

I went through each blog post with Bronya and explained the piece of written work, photos and why I had presented it in a certain way. I have a few blog posts missing so far, but with Bronya's help I was able to gather so good ideas to get these up to date and well-constructed. It was an enjoyable experience as well as helpful because I was able to show the work I was proud of and my further work outside of university researching makeup designers that I admire. The most helpful aspect of this session was Bronya's evaluation, feedback and targets for my work and sketchblog.

Overall, Bronya confirmed she thought my sketchblog and content was a C2. The aspects that were 'satisfactory' were range of sources as I have only used books and the internet (I have not yet extended this to journals, films or videos) and my understanding of relevant historical practise, theories and current practises as I am still getting familiar with becoming a makeup researcher, artist and designer! For my practical and professional skills, I was rated between upper second and lower second (competent and basic) for the required specialised skills and achieved upper second for my communication skills.



Bronya's personal feedback for my sketchblog was 'the blog is detailed and set out nicely with a good use of visual imagery as well as you going out of your way to find more inspiration to support your work'. The three following targets were also set by Bronya to help improve my work:

  • Could use a range of different sources to support work and reference properly
  • Finish all required work
  • Practise more of your work outside of class
Leave a Comment ,
Powered by Blogger.

Copyright New Elizabethans. Designed by Georgia Lou Studios

Back to Top