Shaping the Face - Contour, Blush and Highlight

Products used:

• Kryolan Ultrafoundation palette
• Illamasqua Satin Primer
• Kryolan Camouflage palette
• Kryolan Classic Blush palette
• Illamasqua Sculpting Duo
• Foundation Brush
• Kabuki Brush
• Powder Puff
• Small Blending Brush
• Blusher Brush

Health and safety:

• Cover model
• Check for contact lenses
• Ask model about any skin complaints or allergies
• When applying shadows or mascaras, ask model to close eyes and work carefully
• Make sure all brushes are clean
• Do not double dip with products
• Wash hands

Name: Bronya Leavesley

Age: 20

Hair type: Medium length, blonde hair - dyed

Skin type: Combination/Oily

Skin tone: Light with pink undertones

Eye shape: Even eyes

Allergies: N/A

Contraindication: N/A

At the beginning of our technical session with Sue, we were asked to add the base initally to our partners face to have a blank canvas for the contour and highlight. Bronya has a normal skin type, with tendencies to be dry, that has pink undertones. To approach this, I mixed the lighter yellowy tones from the Kryolan Ultrafoundation Palette and applied it on top of a satin primer. 


To start highlighting process, I mixed concealer shades D1 + D3 from the Kryolan Camouflage Palette that were slightly lighter than her natural skin tone. With this mixture, I applied it in a C shape from under her brow to on top of her cheekbones. I also applied this shade in the centre of her forehead, on the bridge of her nose and her chin. To further accentuate the cheekbones after contour, I added the highlight shade under her cheekbones as well. 

For contour, I used a combination of the medium and dark shades from the Ultrafoundation palette to create the perfect contour shade that would be blend-able and natural looking. I asked Bronya to suck in her cheeks so I could feel her face and place the contour accurately so it only brought out her natural attribute as opposed to changing the shape of her face or distorting it. To apply the colour, I dabbed it with my finger and blended it out with the aid of a small rounded brush. I brought that same colour up to the temples, on the sides of the nose and under her jaw. All those areas are not always necessary to cover but for this practise session I wanted to explore the results.

A combination of the pink shades from the Kryolan Classic Blush palette was used on Bronya's cheeks. To finish off the face, I applied the highlight shade from the Illamasqua Sculpting Duo on the tops of her cheekbones and powdered her face. 

I feel like this attempt was successful as her face does not look heavily covered by makeup and the contour does not look 'muddy'. In future, I would apply the blusher less heavily as in real life her cheeks were very flushed before I applied another layer of powder! This skill has been one of my favourites to perfect and will be useful in any makeup look.

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