Consultation notes:
Name: Beth Haile
Age: 18
Hair Type: Light blonde (dyed) medium length
Skin Type: Combination/Oily
Skin Tone: Light with pink undertones
Eye Colour and Shape: Green/Brown and round and even shape
Allergies: N/A
Contradictions: N/A
Application Process and 1st Attempt in Class
- Wash hands, including back of hands to use as a palette to mix colours
- For primer, you can optionally mix primer with base or apply primer then base (for my attempt demonstrated below, I applied a primer with a foundation brush and then the foundation with the same brush)
- Do not double dip, spatulas are used to pick up product and place on palette and then disposed of
- Start in the middle of the face and work out, working the loaded brush backwards and forwards repeatedly
- Lift models head to cover the neck with the same colour of base
- Make sure ears are covered with base and be careful around piercings
- Take a smaller brush around the eyes and nose (for eyes, go right up to lash line to make sure colour of face is even all over)
- After applying the base with a foundation brush, buff over skin firmly with kabuki brush to make sure the foundation is worked into skin
- Apply a shade of concealer that is one or two shades lighter than your chosen base colour - you can mix concealer with cream foundation to make mixture smoother to apply. Only use light reflecting concealer under eyes, not on blemishes. Push concealer onto blemishes with the brush to make sure redness is covered
- Roll the powder puff in the translucent powder and apply under eyes, down the nose and forehead (if you are working with an oily base, apply all over) to remove shine and set the base.
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| 1st image: Beth's skin cleansed and moisturised for a clean base. 2nd image: Finished base application. 3rd image: Beth's face in the mirror and makeup side lighting to show the satin and glowing finish of the base. |
Products used on Beth's face
- Illamasqua Satin Primer
- Kryolan Cream Ultrafoundation in Ivory and FS 38
- Kryolan Dermacolour Camouflage Concealer in D1 and D4
- Illamasqua Loose Powder in LP 010
For the bases (or foundations), the overall finish should be a perfect match to their models skin tone and therefore should barely be noticeable. If the person I'm working on has varied skin tones across the neck and face, the foundation should match the majority colour and then the skin will be evened out to create a flawless finish. As the make up artist, the face must not touched with fingers while applying the base as the heat from the hand can melt away the cream products and the finish with be unflattering (a puff or cotton can be used to rest on whilst touching the face). The formula of the bases must be taken into account with the situation or location - waterproof bases for rainy or wet locations and SPF bases and sun block for hot and sunny situations.
When applying the base, it is advised to add the product all over face and neck and buff the product in with a kabuki brush to remove any lines and perfect the finish of the foundation. Following that, you then should apply concealer (and if needed buff again) otherwise if you conceal before the base and then apply again the base will become too heavy and cakey. Powder is applied after the cream products to remove shine and set the products to last. The eyelids must be powdered as well to make sure there are no harsh lines from creasing. If I wanted to use cream products after the base has been applied - for example, cream blusher or contour - then I would not powder the face until the very end to avoid difficult application of mixing a cream product on top of powder. The neck and under the nose must also be covered by foundation or concealer in case a camera needs to come up close and personal.
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